I know why the machine was smoking so much during use. The smoking part is called the fan shaft cap. It's a plastic part that holds grease in place around the fan shaft. Somehow it fell off and got under a large white power resistor. That part is used when the lamp is set to low power. Basically it bleeds off about 100 watts of power that would otherwise go to the lamp. So it gets quite hot and it needs to be near the fan's airflow. Basically Kodak made a little error since the cap is not held in place very well and it's falling onto the resistor is not surprising. Maybe it needs a wire to better hold it in place.
The projector would still work, even with the part badly smoking. It would be a great realism effect if you were showing slides of a house fire though.
I found the cap half melted on the power resistor (pictures below). The power resistor still works but it looks somewhat degraded and will eventually fail. I'll see if I can find a replacement. But you can go ahead use it until it fails. No rush. It won't fail for some time, maybe 50 hours or more. You'll know when the lamp does not work in the low setting.
The melted Fan Shaft Cap obviously needs to be replaced. I found it on www.Micro-Tools.com, their part number is 232729 $1.77 plus shipping. You can use the projector for your presentation without this part. It's not critical, it keeps the fan shaft grease from drying out from all the air rushing by. A few hours won't be a problem. I put some fresh grease on the shaft and also lubed other parts You can see in the picture below where I took the motor apart in order to get some fresh grease in the motor bearings. I was surprised at how hot the motor runs, it should be relubed every 25 hours or so.
I used my Aerospace quality grease but I think it really needs high temp grease. I'll see if I can something locally. Amazon has a 14 oz tube of Redline CV-2 for $11.95 I noticed the red remote focus gears are totally age degraded to the point where they are growing white crystals.
Someone at Kodak made a mistake picking out plastics for these gears. www.micro-tools.com has replacements for both gears in a parts kit that comes with two other parts (a nylon link and rivet) that are currently working. This kit is their part number KODAK-KIT Price is $10.95 These gears are only needed for the remote focus control. However the other parts in the kit are very good to have on hand. One of them is critical to the mechanical system and is subject to breakage..
Here are some visuals for you...
Here are some visuals for you...
This is a video of an IR temperature gauge pointing at the resistor...first at fan only (no rise), then at low lamp power (big rise). http://youtu.be/deA6RVU9kCg My assistant helped in aiming the IR gauge.
This is how I found the Cap. You can tell something doesn't look right.
This is where the Cap should be.
I've never seen pink gears before. For some reason they not only failed but are emitting crystals in the surrounding area.
I thought you'd like to see what the projector looks like partially disassembled. Overall it's in pretty good shape. The rubber belts are high quality neoprene, a miracle material. They show no signs of age. I did not totally disassemble the projector since it basically works. The area under the wires is where the mechanical motion happens. I oiled it but did not take it apart. This area also controls the delay timer. It's off a bit but not that much, so I left it alone. Seeing how it works, I recommend when pressing the reverse button either on the remote or on the projector that you depress it a bit longer or the mechanism will mistake it for a forward command. It even say this in the manual.
Also it is VERY important to run the fan for 5 minutes after turning the lamp off. The heat built up in the projector after a show is very high and needs to be dissipated. Again, this is in the manual.
This is going to work fine for you when I'm finished. Get some rest.
